Guatape is certainly the most popular day trip from Medellín for backpackers.  In recent years the giant 200m (656 feet) tall rock has become a symbol of the region.  Moreover, only a short 2 hour journey from Medellín it is easily accessible by bus.  The rock itself, locally known as El Peñol projects out of the landscape.  It seems so out of place here that it was worshipped by indigenous Tahamí tribe in the same way as Uluru by the Australian Aborigines.

Due to its smooth almost vertical surface the rock was not first climbed until July of 1954.  On seeing the spectacular views from the summit the climbers wanted to share the view with the world.  A staircase was built making use of a large crack that runs up the face and is still used to this day.  In 1970 the area became the center of a huge hydroelectric dam project to supply water to the nearby city of Medellin.  This would completely reform the surrounding landscape.  As a result residents of nearby villages were relocated and whole towns were flooded.  This formed a patchwork of islands as far as the eye can see from on top of the rock.

The rock sits between the rival villages of Guatape and El Peñol.  Historically both claimed ownership of the rock.  This led to bitter disputes between the neighbours.  One night, residents from Guatape climbed the rock with the intention of writing their name in giant letters.  They had completed the G and a line intended to form part of the U when the rival village became aware of what was happening.  A furious mob arrived from El Peñol arrived and demanded they stop the work.  As a result the letters “GI” are visible on the rock to this day.

With just over 5,000 residents Guatape itself is better described as a small rural village than an actual town.  The town almost seems designed straight from a child’s imagination.  Brightly colored houses line the streets.  Each house is characterised by its individually designed zócalo.  These are drawings on the buildings which illustrate the profession of the household. 

A Typical home in Guatape

The town itself is easy to navigate on foot in a couple of hours.  Explore the windy streets and take some photos of the vibrant colored buildings.  The main square is the perfect place to sit outside and grab a drink or a spot of lunch to rest your legs after the long climb.

There are two options of transport to get to Guatape.  The easiest way is on one of the many tour buses that will pick you up from Parque Poblado.  The bilingual guides explain the history of the rock on the 2 hour bus journey.  A variety of different tour options are available to book via Purple Monkey Hostel reception.  Prices are from $70,000COP for the return trip including lunch.

Alternatively it is possible to just go by bus yourself.  Buses leave every 15-20 minutes from the North Bus Terminal.  To get there take the Metro north to station Caribe.  Once you arrive there you will see the bus terminal to your left.  Leave the Metro station and head over the bridge on your left.  This takes you straight into the bus station.  Head downstairs and you will find the ticket offices.  The destinations for the buses are shown at each ticket window.  Find the window that says “Guatape” or “El Peñol”.  When you arrive at Guatape the bus station is just 2 blocks downhill from the main square.  From the ticket office there you can buy your return ticket to Medellin.  The cost is $15,000COP each way.

Following the global Coronavirus Covid 19 pandemic, Colombia is beginning to open its borders.  Official websites in Colombia however are notoriously poorly maintained.  Additionally there is a lot of false or hearsay information being reported by different media outlets.  We have compiled this update based on multiple sources of reliable information.  The aim is to give a comprehensive guide on the requirements for entering Colombia post Covid 19.

Please note: While we do our best to keep this information up to date the situation is constantly changing.  As a result we recommend that you consult various sources of information when planning your trip.  This latest version was updated on 6th April 2021

On 23^rd March 2020 Colombia closed its borders to international travel.  Following a domestic pilot scheme to test airport Coronavirus protocols, international air borders reopened on 19^th September.  At that time, routes opened to the USA, Ecuador, Mexico, Bolivia, Brazil, Dominican Republic and Guatemala.  Peru was added to this list on 5^th October.  This is part of a phased reopening to gradually reactivate the aviation industry.

The initial phase of reopening was designed more to help people who had a necessity to travel.  This includes people returning to their families abroad or people travelling for business.  Tourists may enter Colombia, but the restrictions in destinations were partly designed to avoid a large influx of tourism as the country ramps up its vaccine rollout.

Land, sea and river borders will remain closed until further notice due to the threats of variants particularly from Brazil.

The Ministry of Health announced that from 7th April all arrivals to Colombia MUST present a negative PCR test result taken maximum 96 hours before your arrival.  This requirement has changed repeatedly over the previous months and so we recommend that you consult your airline before flying.

Travellers entering the country will still NOT be required to quarantine.

Arrivals must fill in an online questionnaire on the Migracion Colombia website.  This asks your personal information, flight number and if you have had the virus in the past.  You must complete this less than 24 hours and up to 1 hour before your scheduled flight time. The document takes around 10 minutes to fill in and is free of charge.

Arrivals must download a track and trace app called “CoronApp” which advises you if you have come into contact with anyone testing positive for Coronavirus while in Colombia.  You can download it here.

Local state authorities define the exact measures which are in place depending on the area that you are travelling.  The following requirements apply nationwide.

Use of masks is obligatory in all public spaces.  There are no restrictions on the type of mask used.

Guests at Purple Monkey Hostel Following the Reopening of International Borders

Businesses must comply with strict sanitation procedures in order to reopen.  The Department of Sanitation performed widescale inspections in August and September.  This was to ensure that businesses were compliant with the protocols.  Hand sanitizer is available in all establishments and staff are required to take your temperature when entering a building.  Areas where there are high concentrations of people have implemented social distancing.  This includes such as restaurants, buses, bars and hostels.

Bars and beaches are open and officially have to follow social distancing guidelines.  In reality however this has not been strictly enforced.

Areas of mass gatherings such as concerts and football matches will remain closed until further notice.

Colombia has 4 international airports which reopened on 19^th September.  These are:

• El Dorado – BOG, Bogotá
• José María Cordova – MDE, Medellín
• Rafael Nuñez – CTG, Cartagena
• Alfonso Bonilla Aragón – CLO, Cali

Airline Viva Air has been the most proactive in reopening its international routes.  This budget airline operates throughout in South America.  In an attempt to grow its business and take advantage of its struggling competition it has offered some rock bottom prices in the short term.

Avianca, Colombia’s national airline was bailed out by the government during the pandemic and has resumed domestic flights.  They are currently being cautious about the opening of international routes.

Regular domestic flights are also running at almost pre-pandemic volumes.  According to the Ministry of Transport as at 2^nd October 2020 there were 88 commercial air routes open running between 42 domestic airports.

At the start of the pandemic poor testing and in fighting between authorities led to a sustained growth in cases until mid August.  After a period of decline and then stability in terms of case numbers, Colombia experienced a 2nd wave in mid-January 2021.  Cases began to drop through February and into March.  Hospital capacity, access to PPE and ventilators has been constantly improving since the start of the pandemic.

Unlike in Europe, most Colombians live with their parents and grandparents.  This meant that the most vulnerable could easily catch the illness from their son or daughter who had to go out to work.  The fact that it wasn’t possible to isolate older people resulted in one of the world’s strictest lockdowns.  This inter-generational living also led to a quick spread throughout the country in spite of these measures.

As the situation could change in a heartbeat this is a question that is impossible to answer.  Since August however there has been an increasing feeling that the situation is returning to normal.  Government restrictions have been slowly lifted and people are obeying the official guidelines.  In general, most Colombians are behaving very responsibly, and it is unusual to see anyone without a mask.

In a previous blog we made the case that in spite of everything, 2021 could actually be the best time ever to travel. 

Tourism in Colombia is still relatively new.  As a result it is still not considered a key factor in its economy.  This is evidenced by the fact that tourist businesses were not eligible for government loans during the pandemic.  It would be unlikely the government would risk the health of its citizens for just a handful of tourists.  The fact that the government is allowing international travel again suggests that they are confident in the measures that have been implemented.  The government however remain resolute that all travellers must comply with the above requirements for entering Colombia post Covid 19.

Most articles during the coronavirus era make pretty depressing reading.  With death, economic collapse, riots and forest fires in the news headlines daily, 2020 will not be fondly remembered by most.  But before you write off 2021 as more of the same, lets look at things from a different angle.  Maybe, just maybe, post coronavirus travel could be your gateway to explore the world.

With a world of buyers in lockdown, most businesses have had to lower their prices to avoid falling victim to the pandemic.  While many will recover in time, all are suffering from a shortage of cash flow in the short term.  This means that even selling at cost price is now a widespread tactic.

With supply outstripping demand restaurants, hostels, bus companies are all competing for your business.  This puts the buyer in a great position who can negotiate to lower even already discounted prices.

Many hostels have had to reduce their prices while the demand is significantly lower.  Furthermore almost all are offering excellent deals of stays of more than a week.  The need to avoid paying commission to online booking platforms also means extra discounts or freebies when booking direct.

In times of recession, the markets have more confidence in the more established currencies such as USD or Euros.  This has led to devaluation of some currencies in Latin America, meaning you get more when you buy in the local currency. The Argentine Peso (25% loss in value) and the Brazilian Real (23%) in particular have taken a significant hit vs the $USD since the start of February 2020.  All currencies in the region however have suffered to varying degrees.

While exchange rates are a complex issue that are driven by a number of factors.  South American exports are heavily based around natural resources.  These include oil in Colombia, Brazil and Ecuador and copper in Chile.  With the world’s factories closed, there is much lower demand for these resources.  As a result fewer companies are buying local currencies to purchase these products.

As industry begins to recover in 2021 this is likely to bounce back.  In the short term however travelers are likely to get more bang for their buck.  In effect, those traveling from outside South America can currently stretch their budgets 25% further.

Airlines are pulling out all the stops to compete for your business.  This has resulted in incredible deals such as direct flights to South America from Miami for $100USD. Most airlines lease their aircraft and a lack of travelers has led to problems in meeting their financial obligations.  Now international borders are beginning to open again they need to fill those seats again and quickly.  The result? A price war between airlines running the same routes.

In order to restart tourism, some governments have even subsidised the cost of tickets through lowering airport taxes.  This saving is then passed on to the consumer meaning even lower air fares than ever before.

The aviation and accommodation industries are conscious of the uncertainty of future restrictions and so are changing their offers accordingly. It is currently commonplace to see free cancellation offers or at least flexibility with dates with no additional charges.

At Purple Monkey Hostel Medellin we are offering free cancelation on any reservation made in 2020.  It is in all our interests that travelers can book with confidence against an unforeseen change in circumstances.

Over tourism was an increasing problem before the pandemic and historic sites had been limited visitors in order to protect them.  The achievement of hiking to a spectacular view was also diminished by sharing that site with hundreds of other tourists all jostling to get their own photo.

It may sound selfish, but seeing the sun rise over Machu Pichu would be all the more dramatic if you had it to yourselves.  With tourism numbers likely to grow gradually over the coming months, this is an opportunity that won’t last forever.

Government regulations have limited the number of beds that can be sold per room with top bunks being temporarily prohibited.  Not only does this guarantee a bottom bunk, but the space between dorm beds has been increased. As a result you have more chance on getting a good nights sleep.

We have all stopped in hostels that have crammed an extra bed into any space they have available.  One positive outcome from social distancing laws is that this is now regulated and hostels are restricted as to how many people can be squashed into one space.

In a world of uncertainty and redundancies, businesses are reluctant to hire new staff.  Because of this the job market has never been more competitive.  For many, the idea of job hunting and incurring costs back home for months with limited likelihood of success may seem futile.

The generation most hard hit in the job market will be the backpacker (18-30) age group.  Those recently graduated from university or with limited experience in their jobs are statistically the most likely to have lost work during the Covid-19 crisis.

For many of that generation who had enjoyed a taste of independence at university or on their travels will have been hit hard having to move back home with their parents during the pandemic.  For some, the opportunity to take a gap year in a tropical climate will be seen as the perfect remedy for 6 months of house arrest.  With every week away, the job market will slowly recover back home.  It is likely that when you return after a life changing trip your prospects will have have improved.

Some areas of Latin America were badly hit by the pandemic and for several months were considered the epicentre of the virus.  Fortunately however the number of active cases in the region have been declining since August.  As a result government restrictions on travel and business have now been lifted.

Of course we must all still remain vigilant and take sensible precautions. However governments are actively encouraging people to return to work so we can begin to reactivate the economy.  This is a reassuring sign that those responsible for our welfare are confident that we are at least over the worst of the crisis.

With all the depressing reports in the news at the moment we thought we would try and lift your spirits by sharing a few of the funniest and weirdest encounters that we have had in the hostel over the past few years.

I was once on reception when a guest due to check in arrived in a panic. She told me that she had forgotten to pick up her bag when she arrived at the airport. Having realised in the taxi she was closer to the city than the airport, she thought it was best not to turn back.  Instead have us call the airport to have them look after it for her until it could either be sent here or she could go back herself and pick it up.

Knowing the procedures at the airport we told her not to worry. We would give them a call and locate her bag for her. I asked her for her passport as I knew that the number would be requested when we made the call. Her expression turned from worry to sheer panic. In her rush to get to the hostel she realised that she had also left her 2^nd backpack, containing her passport in the taxi.

After a number of phone calls we managed to trace both bags down and they were returned to the very relieved guest.

For the first two years after opening the hostel I lived on site. After finishing work at midnight I would unwind for a couple of hours watching movies on my laptop in my room. One night this was interrupted by a blood curdling scream from the adjacent dorm at around 2am. It was clear that this wasn’t just someone messing around.  Rather by the sound the person was clearly very distressed and possibly even in fear for their life.

Fearing the worst I jumped up and ran into the room. I turned the light on to find everyone sat up in their beds looking around trying to understand what was happening. “What’s going on guys?” I asked. No-one replied. “That scream came from this room didn’t it?” I followed up, a question that was replied to by a silent and shocked nod from all the guests inside. “So what happened?”. There were a few moments of silence before the guy on the top bunk next to me embarrassed, said “don’t worry, its nothing”. “Was it you? Why were you screaming?!”. He looked down. “I just had a nightmare” he mumbled in response as everyone started to laugh.

A couple of years ago we had a group of 3 middle aged Peruvian women in the hostel. They didn’t look the typical type of guest we tend to host.  Always perfectly done up with makeup and hair straightened, with dresses straight out of a fashion catalogue. On their last day in the city they decided to go to Parque Arvi, the national park on the outskirts of the city. They left the hostel in the morning dressed to the nines, certainly not appropriate attire for a hike through the forest. Parque Arvi however isn’t just hiking, there are restaurants and also artisanal markets which are worth a trip so unaware of their plans we didn’t feel the need to comment.

The last transport back from the park leaves at 6pm. The park rangers go home at this time and being as the following days were Sunday and Monday was a public holiday.  There would be no one around until Tuesday morning.

At 6pm we received a phone call from one of the group saying that they were lost in the park. We tried to call the park rangers but all of them had left work for the day. The sun had set and the girls had no idea where they were. We called the police but they weren’t interested in sending a search party with it being outside the city and such a large area. They were told they had to find their own way out.

The girls walked through the forest at night in their high heels trying to find some kind of civilization. Coming across a road, they were relieved to be able to flag down a bus and were ecstatic that they had found salvation. Colombian buses often stop off on route for a bathroom break so that passengers can stretch their legs and buy drinks and snacks. When it came time to leave they got back on the bus in good spirits thinking their next stop would be the bus station in Medellin. 10 minutes later they realised that one of them hadn’t got back on the bus. Instead she had been in the bathroom when the bus left. The driver refused to turn back so the two girls were consequently forced to abandon their friend.

The third member of the group finally managed to hitch a lift on the back of a motorbike and the trio were reunited at the bus terminal in Medellin. They finally made it back to the hostel with mudded and torn clothes around 10pm that night.

Parque Arvi, Medellin

We have a plastic roof outside our entrance, and the big windows in the dorms on the second floor open onto this area.

It was a normal, quiet night in the early hours of the morning.  The guy working the nightshift was sat on reception with not much to do. Suddenly there was a bang and a leg appeared through the roof that is in clear view of reception. Assuming that it was someone trying to break in, the receptionist went out to confront the person. Rather than finding an aspiring thief he was shocked to see one of our guests, who was equally confused as to what he was doing up there. It turns out he had a history of sleep walking, and during the night had gotten out of bed, opened the window and strolled out onto the roof.

He was really apologetic and equally scared of what could have happened. We both agreed he should try and get a dorm on the first floor in the future.

We had only been open for a few weeks and I was working the nightshift. Sat on reception, I noticed a particularly repugnant smell, as if someone very ill had been to the bathroom and not flushed. I grabbed the air freshener spray and went into the bathroom to investigate.  After inspecting I quickly realised that wasn’t the origin of the smell. Strange I thought, it must be coming from the toilet upstairs. I headed upstairs but it became apparent that it wasn’t coming from there either.

Sitting back down on reception, confused, I started doubting that maybe it was my own mind playing tricks. I sat back down but there it was again, this eye watering stench. I got up and walked around, following my nose to one of the dorm room doors. I turned the door handle and slowly opened the door.  Suddenly I could sense someone diving at the door from the other side to stop me getting in. The horror of what had happened quickly dawned. For want of a better expression, our drunken guest, who by pure luck was the only one in that room that night, had evidently shit the bed.

We had to throw away the only weeks old covers and mattress.

Around 9pm one night a guest came to ask advice on what time she should leave for the airport.  “What time is your flight?” our receptionist asked.  “It says 15:30 on the boarding pass” she replied, “but we don’t use military time in the States, so I’m not too sure when that is”.  We had to break the news to her that 15:30 is 3:30pm, and her flight had probably arrived at its destination hours ago.

She rebooked for 14:00 the following day, after double checking what that time actually meant.

Anyone who has travelled extensively would agree that hostels are a key resource in exploring the world. A 6 month trip paying $10 a night in a hostel may be feasible. Plans would have to change dramatically however if limited to expensive hotels or Airbnbs. As a backpacker community we need to protect the hostels that give us an opportunity to follow our dreams.

Unfortunately many hostels have already gone bankrupt including three more in our city just this week. Undoubtedly they wont be the last before this pandemic ends, an issue I discussed in length in my previous blog. Helping the community doesn’t necessarily mean spending more of your hard-earned money however. It can be just as effective to make small changes to our traveling habits.  This can help ensure our money goes to where it is needed to protect the tourist infrastructure.

Below are our 5 tips on what we can all do to help without impacting on our own budgets.

For years third party online travel agents such as Hostelworld or Booking have been charging hostels commission rates of up to 25% for reservations. These charges are generally hidden and designed to mislead the consumer. Their website may say their service charge is free but you need to pay a “deposit” to them of 25%.  The customer believes their service is free and that the deposit is paid to the hostel. This money however is their share of the reservation value. In using these 3^rd parties the money goes direct to these businesses and ultimately gets distributed to their shareholders.

In fact many hostels offer better rates if booking direct for this exact reason. Consequently we are happy to give a discount of 10% for direct bookings.  This is because the income from that reservation will still be more than if it came via a third party.

Changing our habits and booking direct immediately restores 25% of a hostel’s gross income back to the hostel itself.  Consequently this can be used to reinvest in facilities or also generally improve services through recruiting more staff.

With the backpacker travel boom of the last two decades it was only a matter of time before the big corporations would take advantage of the market. Chain hostels have become commonplace.  Some have invested millions of dollars in huge buildings that will provide a good return to their investors.

The essence of hostel life is community, and small owner run hostels are the soul of the industry. Hostels like ourselves and others are run by the owners who’s main motivation isn’t financial. We are in this industry as we want to meet fellow travellers and give them the best experience. Of course we want to turn a profit, but this is to put food on our tables as opposed to buying a new yacht.

The same can be said of non-chain but large production line type hostels. Huge towering buildings with hundreds of beds threaten the livelihood of small, family owned and run businesses who want to offer a personal experience. In these uncertain times, it is the guests who can define who survives and how backpacking will be for the next generation.

Hostels form part of an economic ecosystem.  This is shared with neighbouring restaurants, coffee shops and convenience stores. Undoubtedly one of the priorities in selecting a hostel is a good location in other words having close access to relevant goods and services. It is important to realise that whole neighbourhoods often survive on providing services to guests at the local hostel. In giving them our custom we can help protect them.  This ensures that these facilities stay open for future travellers, rather than leaving the hostels isolated in a ghost town of boarded up shop windows.

Volunteering in hostels is a thorny ethical issue. For years I have been a sceptical of taking paid work away from locals by using volunteers.  This however is an example of how the world will need to adapt in the wake of coronavirus. Unfortunately all hostels have had to let go staff. Volunteers could however provide a bridge to the recruitment of those staff again. In the current climate it just isn’t possible to reemploy those staff.  It is too risky due to uncertainty and sporadic tourism over the next few years. Volunteers however would be perfect to fill that void in the short term. This could help sustain hostels that in the medium and longer term will be able to move back to local paid salaried staff.

The Coronavirus has meant that we all need to rethink and change our habits. As a hostel, we have had to rethink all our practices to do our best to protect guests and staff alike. Following government guidelines there are some new procedures we need to follow.  We need each guests’ collaboration to do this effectively.

We know that after a long bus ride the last thing you want to do on check-in is fill in a coronavirus questionnaire and be briefed on social distancing. It may seem annoying to keep all your belongings in your locker rather than on your bed.  This however is essential to let the cleaners do their job properly and prevent the possibility of cross contamination. Washing our own dishes after cooking and throwing away our own trash may be a nuisance while on vacation, but are part of a collective responsibility to protect each other.

Coronavirus has changed how we view the world and nothing will be the same again. Together though we can help rebuild the backpacker community.  This will allow future generations to enjoy travel safely and sustainably.